Ben Nevis Ice & Mixed Climbing (5 Days)

Adventure LEVEL | 5 day(s) | Ratio 1:2

Overview

The Ben’s North Face is an international destination for ice and mixed climbing. The history of winter climbing and it’s legendary conditions attract visitors from all over the world.

This adventure is our way of hitting the sweet spot of maximising potential climbing mileage on the classics while balancing the physical and logistical challenges. We will have a day to prepare and walk-in to the CIC hut under the North Face, followed by three full days on the Ben, and a day at the end to climb in the Cairngorms. The CIC hut puts us in the best possible position to minimise time spent on the approach each day, with the aim of getting on some classic Grade V ice and mixed routes.

This is a guided experience; everything the Instructors do will have safety and the goal of maximum climbing enjoyment in mind! As such you will need to be a competent and fit winter climber.

DETAILED INFO

AIMS

With this course we aim to maximise the potential of climbing some classic Ben Nevis ice & mixed climbs. Being based at the CIC hut under the North Face gives quicker access to the climbs and three nights there is the sweet spot for effort made and rewards earned.

Given the aim of climbing some classic Grade V routes on successive days, having a relaxed walk in at the start is key to achieving this aim. Once there, your Instructors’ efforts will be focussed on safety and coaching to maximise your climbing skills and enjoyment on the routes.

PRE-REQUISITES

Please contact Glenmore Lodge to speak with an Instructor prior to booking. We want to discuss your experience and answer any questions you may have about the suitability of this adventure for you.

You should have experience of winter mountaineering and seconding a minimum of Grade III.

This is a very physically demanding course that requires suitable fitness to carry climbing equipment, sleeping bag, food, etc. to the CIC hut. Although based at the hut there is still significant height gain to be made to reach the climbing routes and you will need sufficient fitness to sustain several big mountain days in a row.

CONTENT

You will be at a maximum ratio of one Instructor to two clients, and in a maximum team size of six.

Day 1 will start at Glenmore Lodge, giving us a chance to discuss everyone’s experience and aspirations for the week. This allows the Instructors to create suitable teams, sort equipment, collect food etc. before we travel over to Fort William and walk in to the CIC hut.

Days 2 to 4 you will be climbing on Ben Nevis, where you can expect the Instructors to:

Collect weather & avalanche forecasts and conditions reports, interpret them for you and help you understand there relevance.
Create appropriate plans and route objectives that accommodates the conditions, your ability and aspirations and an appropriate margin for safety.
Make sure you are appropriately equipped and coach you through the process of approaching climbs.
Lead a route, coaching appropriate techniques, whether ice or mixed.
Identify hazards, avoid or minimise the risks and coach you through the situation.
Demonstrate good practice on belay position, stances, rope management and changeovers.
Identify the best descent options, again coaching appropriate skills, either movement skills or abseiling.

At the end of day 4 you will descend from the CIC hut and travel back to the relative luxury (and showers!) of Glenmore Lodge. Day 5 will give us a final opportunity to round off the week with some climbing in the Cairngorms.

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USEFUL INFORMATION

Start Time:: 16:00
End Time:: 17:00
Meeting at:: Glenmore Lodge

WHAT'S INCLUDED?

This course starts and finishes at Glenmore Lodge. Here you’ll have all our facilities at your disposal. We have superb equipment stores stocked with the best kit specifically available for this course. The sharpest axes and crampons, the lightest ropes, and the sharpest ice screws! We will also provide all the food you need, both at Glenmore Lodge and the CIC hut.

We will provide transport for the journey to and from Fort William, which is about 1.5 hours’ drive from Glenmore Lodge. The walk to the hut will take about 1.5 hours and you will carry up everything you’ll need for the three days spent there. The hut has alpine style sleeping platforms with mattresses, you just need to take a sleeping bag, change of clothes, and footwear and any other overnight requirements that you have. All the cooking facilities we need are in the hut and there is a drying room and toilets (but please note, no showers).