North West Scotland Sea Kayaking Expedition

Successful sea kayak expeditions in Scotland are nearly always dictated by the forecasted wind direction. The wind whips the seas up and when allied with far away winds, ocean swells that build can make the west and north coastlines of Scotland inhospitable places to paddle. With good clothing we can hack a bit of rain and cold; with tidal planning we can choose the time to go with the flow. However sea kayakers, like any un-motorised ocean craft, are at the behest of the wind.

I watched the weather patterns taking shape for a week before one of Glenmore Lodge’s North West Sea Kayaking Expeditions. Despite being on holiday with my family at the time, my thoughts kept turning to the following week’s expedition. I had already studied the predictable tides which were favourable for rounding the Cape called ‘Wrath’. The live firing range was also inactive, I guess because of the significant sea bird population that breeds along the coastal cliffs at this time of the year. I wondered too would the clients be on for the challenge?

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Cape Wrath

Monday 5th July Glenmore Lodge to Kearvaig Bay

The day of reckoning and commitment had arrived – and I harboured the thought of the prize of Cape Wrath. The first task was to sell the idea to the as yet unknown paddlers. Fortunately, on meeting Ann, Neil, Richard, and Hal and hearing of their competencies, I felt it was appropriate to dangle the carrot of surprise. A rounding of Cape Wrath is an aspirational journey for any sea kayaker so I knew it would be difficult for them to deny themselves the opportunity.
I detailed the weather, the tides, the likely routine to achieve daily destinations and all remained keen. I did too, leave a get-out clause in that we could always get to or on the water that day and change plans if we felt it was not right.

A busy morning remained, we had to prepare expedition equipment, load boats, check food and bulk up food supplies in Ullapool en-route. On top of all that we had a long drive up to Durness and only then would the expedition truly start.

The first point of commitment was made when I dropped our shuttle scooter off at Kylesku – our planned finish point. What remained was the magnificent drive up a section of the North Coast 500, to Durness and Balnakeil. On arrival there was a mist hanging offshore to the North, generated by the run of easterly winds that had been sweeping the coast. The swell looked slight and the sea, whilst showing signs of wind, appeared manageable.

Balnakeil to Kearvaig 13.5km

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Balnakeil departure point

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Boats fully loaded on the sandy beach at Balnakeil and we were all set to depart following a final check-in to the Coastguard. The trip crosses 2 jurisdictions so I chose to call the one we were due to enter the next day – Stornoway.
We stroked our kayaks out into Balnakeil Bay using the shelter of the An Fharaid, it was tricky to get a true sense of the seas’ behaviour in the Pentland Firth. There was enough though going on to get a sense of people’s comfort in the heavy laden kayaks and all looked good.

Nearing the end of An Fharaid a quick check in with everyone and a decision to use the thumbs up/down/horizontal international sign language of how everyone was feeling, there was an all-round – though perhaps slightly hesitant from some – thumbs up. It was also immediately apparent that a bearing would be useful for the 2km crossing from An Fharaid toward Geodha Dubh as the ‘thin’ veil of mist made it tricky to make out land and any other way of ensuring the right direction was being paddled would be inefficient. A 270° bearing maintained a good heading – easily monitored using my deck mounted compass – and it was not long before land was once more clearly seen. The coastline at this point runs south east north west and was likely to be our choppiest waters before the change to an east west. Everyone was handling it fine and we were making good progress at around 6km per hour.

We had a brief moment when the mist thickened again at Na Glas Leacan and the compass was brought momentarily into action. Noisy seabirds began to appear too, it was like rush hour, hundreds winging their way to and from the high cliffs on our left. Guillemots, Razorbills, Fulmar, Shags, Kittiwakes, Puffins and more. Arriving at the coastal aspect the seas quietened down further and it was a lovely cruisy paddle with the ever-present flotilla and flights of birds along to Kearvaig Bay.

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Coast to Kearvaig

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We arrived at Stac Clò Kearvaig and the turn into Kearvaig Bay after about 2 ¼ hours of easy paddling and quickly sussed out a route into a ‘lagoon’ at the north end of the beach. This was excellent and made for a very sheltered calm landing and heralded a safe launch the next morning.

It also happened that the landing placed us at the best location for camping among the rich machair, the shell sand beneath making for easy secure pegging. A bit of time was spent getting ourselves organised and a late dinner was enjoyed by all. Being early July and midsummer not far behind us we enjoyed the misty north west light until well after 2300.

I took a wander up the hill to the North of Kearvaig and had a fantastic view along the coast west to Cape Wrath. On the cliffs below me were some slightly bemused roosting puffins – mind you they always appear slightly bemused.

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Kearvaig

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Kearvaig stacks and Puffin

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A quiet night followed and our commitment had been rewarded.

Tuesday 6th July 33km Kearvaig Bay to Loch an Roin

With a planned departure to catch the slack water at Cape Wrath at 1030 we were all loaded and ready by 0915. The tidal lagoon was present but evaporating fast on the falling tide so we launched quickly. The forecast had also held out and the cyclonic winds were light and from the east.

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Lagoon departure from Kearvaig

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What a fine morning, nearing Cape Wrath it was apparent that the seas today would allow us to paddle through Cape Wrath, yes indeed through. There are two natural arches on the headland and these both offered easy safe passage today, as did the waters around the Cape and we were able to hang out in calm at the most exposed headland on the mainland of Scotland.

The weather drew finer still, the sun came out and the winds remained light and had shifted to blow from the north west, the swell was very slight. We gently paddled the coastline down toward Sandwood with great architectural geology, numerous sea stacks and sea life, conversations ebbed and flowed like the tide, it was all very settling after the trials of the Covid year. We made good progress too and leaving the red marked DANGER AREA of the ordnance survey map we were soon approaching Sandwood Bay.

At the North end of Sandwood is a slightly separate beach at the end of Strath Chailleach. I could see numerous people on the main beach but no-one at this spot, it seemed right to maintain our distance and have our own space, what is more we had a fine waterfall.

A small dumping surf line followed us in and a quick exit was required to avoid a drenching. Hardly necessary to avoid though as with a waterfall close to hand Richard was the first to sample the delights of the al fresco power shower. It was just one of those opportunities not to be missed with the fine warm weather lending a hand to the motivation. The spot was so enjoyable we spent a full 2 hours on the beach before heading on down past Sandwood Bay toward the iconic and much photographed stack of Am Buachaille. The main beach of Sandwood was indeed busy with people and I think overall I counted at least seventy, I was grateful of our decision to land early. The sea and wind remained helpful to progress.

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Richard in his power shower

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No climbers today on the stack but a perfect day for an ascent. I had sea kayaked to it once before with climbing kit, when we arrived the heavens opened and never ceased so me and my buddy abandoned the idea and continued on down the coast to Sheigra. No climbing for me today too but the mission was a different one.

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Am Buachaille, Sandwood

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Arriving at Sheigra we saw quite a few rock climbers and pulled round into Bagh Sheigra. We landed and had a fruitless attempt at picking up water at the cemetery. Previously it was possible but it was now evident that it had been a while since the taps there had functioned. With a freshening wind behind and across and then into our faces we edged around the coast into Oldshoremore where the public toilets enabled a water resupply.

With water on board we could choose any spot to camp that night and I had in mind a unique tidal pool I had been to before, it was critical to arrive and leave on high water, especially in our lovely composite sea kayaks. Fortunately, the evening tide was in our favour for this and we were rewarded with another stunning camp spot and suitable West coast sunset.

There was good satisfaction in having put in a longer 30+km day as it meant we were off the most exposed and committing coastline of this expedition and while there would still be long days we now had more options. I would rather it was this way than having the crux of the trip at the end. It made for a more relaxed group too.

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Sunset from Loch an Roin camp

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Wednesday 7th 32km Loch an Roin to Oldany Island via Tarbet and Handa

An early start was required to ensure we could paddle out of the tidal pool, again everyone was up and ready at 0700 and we easily launched and were carried out by the now swift stream-like flow. We were headed for Handa Island but needed to delay for the tide to be in our favour. As a result we pulled into Tarbet for a ‘late’ breakfast and another replenishment of fresh water. It had so far been a very dry summer on the west of Scotland and there was no guarantee of finding good water at camp spots, so it was essential to take it on at any opportunity.

It was great to have the down time so early in the morning and despite the early start the day felt less rushed. Breakfasted we headed out from Tarbet for an anticlockwise journey around Handa. With the ever-calming seas the swell was manageable but still carried some liveliness. Not so much in that we were all able to paddle through and right around The Great Stack – a real bonus. Handa Island and The Great Stack, in the middle of the sea bird season, are right up there as one of my favourite sea kayak experiences. Few words can really describe it.

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Under the Great Stack of Handa

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We journeyed on around the island and back into the shelter of the Sound of Handa. Landing for lunch we also stretched our legs to get a bird’s eye view of The Great Stack dodging the interests of the Arctic Skuas that appeared to be harassing folk for fun. Being able to walk across the island gives great additionality to the paddling and a greater sense of place when one peers over the cliffs to the sea and birds below.

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Arctic Skua

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The final destination for the day was Oldany Island and we still had a fair way to go and with two lengthy stops already the day was moving on. With a still helpful wind we knocked out the remaining distance through the Badcall and Eddrachillis archipelagos in under 3 hours. Arriving at the camp for the night we met our first other sea kayakers in three days. With one tent there was plenty of room for ours. A second 30km day in the bag and the expedition was going well.

There were a few options for the last two days and we discussed them over a midge free dinner on the beach. With things going so well we made the collective call to go around the Point of Stoer and visit The Old Man of Stoer returning to the same camp spot for a second night.

Thursday 8th 28km Oldany Island to Old Man of Stoer

With a relaxed departure time of 1000 compared to the previous morning of 0700 and with the decision to return to the same camp spot it felt like one had all the time in the world, such a nice thing to be able to do on any trip. Neil took the opportunity for an early morning dip in the clear, cool calm waters of our sandy bay.

We paddled our lightened boats on the inside of Oldany Island and stopped at the stunning Clashnessie and then Culkein where again water was resupplied, it turned out I knew the son of a house owner there who had worked at Glenmore Lodge. He helpfully gave us water and also a hand a trying unsuccessfully to fix a broken footrest. I have landed a few times at Culkein and today the tide was out which meant for a lot of awkward negotiation of slippery stones. Faced with similar circumstances I would just land at Clashnessie.

After enjoying calm waters, more sea life and entertaining Peregrine Falcons around the Geodha an Leth-roinn, there was a brief moment of lively sea with a good strong tide running North on the ‘inside’ of the Point of Stoer. The journey on though did not disappoint and we were able to once more paddle around a stack with the inside passage being superbly calm. There were groups of climbers too on The Old Man. I knew some of the guides and we exchanged pleasantries. Photos taken we briefly battled the flow and waves at The Point again and then enjoyed the calm water paddle back, including an otter spot. The return paddle also took us around the outside of Oldany going via Eilean Chrona.

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The Old Man of Stoer

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A surprising total of 28 km paddling.

Once back I took a walk up to the high point above our camp site and whilst I was rewarded with fine views I managed to pick up a high number of ticks, possibly the most I have ever encountered. This nearly more than made up for the near absence of midges on this trip, which I can only put down to the slight breeze we always had and previous weeks of dry weather.

I too now had my dip in the sea, as did others though a bit briefer and less committing than Neil’s morning swim.
Another evening spent chatting over dinner on the beach and a final night’s camp, it was a shame we had just one more day ahead of us.

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Oldany Island

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Friday 9th 16km Oldany Island to Kylesku, shuttle scooter to Balnakeil

Friday dawned and we had another early start of 0700. It was hard to believe it was to be the last day. Time passes so quickly. Another calm paddling day with light winds. A seal escorted us away from Oldany, obviously just to make sure. We saw a sea eagle and then dolphins in Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin. The paddle up the loch in those easy conditions did allow time to enjoy, chat and reflect on the previous days and also take in the fine west coast surroundings with the mighty mass of Quinag rearing up to our South. It had the sense of a journey reaching its end, Kylesku Bridge providing a fitting finish line.

I left the Team there as I had a long shuttle on the scooter up to Balnakeil. Needless to say, it was fun and a bit of a trip highlight for me, made pleasant by the warm weather and courteous drivers. The speed of the scooter, or lack of it gave time to enjoy the views while still making progress.

The team had done well and had been rewarded well. Balnakeil, Kearvaig, Cape Wrath, Sandwood, Am Buachaille, Sheigra, Oldshoremore, The Great Stack, Oldany Island, The Point of Stoer, The Old Man of Stoer, Kylesku. Everyone had been resourceful and independent in their preparation and campcraft, had committed, embraced the challenges and put the hard effort in when required. Ready for early starts, accepting of long days and all had paddled well as a team with a good strong expedition pace. Just the right ingredients for success – oh and the weather played ball too.
The memories are good as are the memories of the team:

Ann with her fitness, resolve and strength of character enjoying retirement as she should; Neil with his resilience to cold and deceptive wealth of other world experience; Richard getting back into his paddling and with boundless energy, desire for more and setting the way with the power shower; and Hal with his refined resourcefulness and lightweight approach.

See you next time…

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North West Sea Kayak Expedition: 21st August 2023 – more availability added!

Click here for the full range of Sea Kayaking courses and expeditions

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About Giles

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Fortunate to paddle from an early age and live close by the sea (50 metres from the high water mark) sealed Giles’s future love of sea kayaking. Spring tides were already understood at the age of 11 when he used look for – and find – lost fishing tackle on the shores of the Gareloch – low equinoxial spring tides being the best.

In 1996-97 he had a ‘transformational year’ while on a 13 month Atlantic Circuit in a 9 metre yacht, sailing with one other person.

A few years on and as well as a passion for all things canoe and kayak, sea kayaking exploits have taken him around many of Scotland’s Islands, often solo. He has enjoyed numerous sea kayak expeditions around the world including Southern Greenland, the Mediterranean and an epic circumnavigation of Stewart Island in New Zealand with a friend in 2010. That year only 3 people completed the circumnavigation.

In 2018 he realised a long term ambition to solo sea kayak to St Kilda…and back again.

Most recently in 2020, in between lockdowns, he had the fortune to enjoy a leisurely 9 day solo expedition around the Isle of Mull.

For sea kayaking – he says – “Scotland is as good as it gets anywhere in the world.”

Giles helps deliver the Glenmore Lodge paddlesports programme.