Summer Alpine Tailormade Adventures 2024 Roundup: Part 1

After this year’s Glenmore Lodge Summer Alpine programme concluded, we then delivered 2 further weeks of Tailormade 1:1 private guiding that are both worth celebrating. The 1:1 nature of these weeks means that everything was suited completely to the specific Alpine ambitions. Often folks request a certain mountain, a number of mountains, or to extend their experience gained on a previous Glenmore Lodge Alpine course. These weeks are full of climbing and mountaineering, touring around for specific summits or heading to different mountain regions.

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Background

Teamed up with Joe, the plan was to continue his journey climbing the 4000m peaks of the Alps. We have been climbing together now for around the last 3 years, both here in Scotland and in the Alps. I first met Joe on our Discover Alpine Mountaineering course and then worked together on our Saas Fee Alpine Mountains 4000m course. Joe has used the courses as a pathway for progression, learning and building each year. Last year Joe attended our Swiss Technical Summits course and followed by an ascent of the Matterhorn the week after. A strong and competent mountaineer and climber, it’s been a pleasure climbing with Joe and a real privilege to share these mountaineering adventures together.

Joe also spends a lot of his time outside of work hillwalking and mountaineering here in the UK, ticking off Munros and exploring Scotland. Joe also climbs in winter here in Scotland, which is great for developing Alpine skills and techniques, including all round climbing and mountaineering training.

Plan for the week

The first tailormade climbing week followed the last of our Glenmore Lodge programmed Summer Alpine courses. All the good weather we had experienced then was holding, and looked set to continue over the week. This made it easy to make a plan and commit to it, though sometimes you have to be flexible and adjust your plans if the weather changes. With the stable good weather, we had a positive start to with week and both Joe and I were already acclimatized.

The plan this year was for more 4000m mountains, building on previous experience, and particularly those with technical ascents. Joe suggested the plan of Pollux 4089m, Dent Blanche 4357m, and the ENE ridge Lenzspitze 4293m/Nadelhorn 4327m traverse. It was easy for both of us to be excited for such a plan, we had great conditions in the mountains and all we needed was for the good weather to hold, strength in the legs, and a bit of good luck too.

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Pollux

Joe had already done a few days pre-acclimatisation to around 3500m so was in a good position for us to start the week at 4000m. We planned for Pollux, the lower altitude of the 4000m peaks planned for the week, and very accessible. This would act as a good warm up and save some effort and energy in the legs for the week ahead.

With an early drive round to Tasch the next day, we got the shuttle train to Zermatt. Here we got the cable car access to the top station at the Klein Matterhorn 3883m. At this point you are straight out onto the glacier, providing access to many 4000m peaks including Breithorn, Pollux and Castor.

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We could see Pollux clearly in the distance as we geared up for glacier travel. We were not alone, as the first cable car of the day is often full. However everyone soon made their way to different mountains and it was relatively quiet. The glacier was in great condition with good frozen snow cover, which made for quick and easy walking. It took us around 1hr to reach the base of Pollux, with a good track and great clear weather we were feeling good about the day. The aim was to take our time, aware that this was our ‘warm up’ and the start of a big week.

The first half of the route is good scrambling and mostly solid rock, ideal for taking our time in order to pace ourselves. The middle section is slightly harder and involves fixed chains to pull on. The steeper rock passages of popular mountains are sometimes made more accessible by fixing ropes or in this case chains (such as the Dent de Geant and the Matterhorn, though these are still difficult and strenuous). We were fast up the chains and next was the final snow arete to the summit. At a large flat snow ledge we stopped for a break and some breakfast, then put our crampons back on and got out the ice axes.

We made our way slowly up the final snow arete and were soon on the summit, taking in the views and watching the odd Zermatt helicopter buzz past before deciding to begin our descent. It is often the case that your ascent route is the descent too; traverses can be more adventurous though. Returning the same way means you’re well prepared and know what to expect, sometimes making it easier and quicker.

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Back at the top of the fixed chains, we had to be patient and make our way slowly through other teams that were ascending. Fixed ropes or harder sections of mountains can often produce a bottleneck where inevitably teams slow down, something to be expected. The descent was smooth and after another little break we were back down on the glacier. It was mid-morning by this point, and the sun was getting hot. After taking the cable car back down to Zermatt, we felt good and ready to relax back at our base the Pension Heino.

The Dent Blanche

Over dinner we were able to confirm the next stage of the week, the Dent Blanche. Famous for its long walk to the base of the mountain, this remote peak is iconic and can be seen clearly on the drive up to Arolla. It is immediately recognisable and can be identified on the skyline from most mountain summits in the Alps. Ever since I first saw this peak, I wanted to climb it and experience the adventure it offers. We were lucky with the weather holding, and so set off from an early start in Saas Grund and drove round to Ferpecle for the start of the walk in. The walk to the hut was around 4 to 5 hours, so we opted for an early start with the aim of avoiding the midday heat.

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We were lucky enough to get a high car park spot, so once the heavy bags were packed we started the walk in at around 10:30am. Trying not the think about the 1300m altitude gain required to the hut, we instead focused on the amazing surrounding scenery and perfect sunny weather. With lots of little breaks and good pace we managed to get to the hut in four and a half hours. We could see the Dent Blanche during the entire walk in; such an impressive looking mountain, and it was a great feeling anticipating heading up there the next day.

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Every hut has its own character and style, and the Dent Blanche hut is relatively small and remote. We loved the hut and its location, sitting quite high at the foot of the Dent Blanche south ridge. We arrived with plenty of time to rest and recover for the next day. Due to the weather and conditions the hut was full, but there was still plenty of room to relax and enjoy a good dinner. Breakfast the next day was at 4am, accompanied by some light music in the background (the guardian had chosen the Imperial March from Star Wars) and plenty of coffee. We were soon putting harnesses on and gearing up outside.

A short scramble behind the hut leads to the glacier leading up to the South Ridge proper. Good conditions and clear skies made for a smooth start. Not without some hard work, we were making good pace, while enjoying the climbing and views across to the Zermatt 4000m peaks.

The rock on the ridge was clear of snow meaning we could climb without crampons; this makes movement easier and smoother. We were soon past the couloir and high on the summit ridge. The weather was perfect, and we were feeling good. It was pitched climbing when the climbing was tricky or exposed and the rest of the time moving together on the easier terrain. Joe and I are used to climbing with each other , and this makes a big difference when mountaineering. Not only a strong climber/mountaineer, Joe also has a good understanding of the methods and techniques that are essential for good teamwork on routes like this. Working as a team is fun and can help speed things up, useful when keeping time is important on bigger 4000m peaks where routes tend to be longer. We had chosen to walk back out that same day too, so allowing time and energy for this was essential.

The crampons went back on for the final snow slopes, as we were now beyond the main rock ridge. We arrived at the summit at 8.00am, about 4 hours after breakfast. We were both buzzing after such a smooth and enjoyable route, which had a big mountain feel to it. Our thoughts quickly focused on the descent, which was to reverse the ascending route back down the south ridge to the hut.

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Keeping focused we made the descent back to the hut, which took about 3 hours. We ordered some food and repacked our gear for the long walking descent back to the road head. Though there was some talk of a storm risk that afternoon, the weather held and things were looking good. The walk back to the road head went easier than expected, and we were ahead of the schedule getting to the car where we changed into fresh clothes, removed our boots, and began the 2 hour drive back to Saas Grund for a well-earned rest.

Rest day

That evening we reflected on the day’s efforts, and it was hard to believe that we had been on the summit of the Dent Blanche earlier that day! We had planned for a rest the next day, and fortunately we had time to do this which allowed for some recovery.

A day later we were into our third phase of the week, for which we had planned the ENE ridge of the Lenzspitze (4294m) and traverse of the Nadelhorn (4327m).

ENE Ridge of the Lenzspitze

Joe and I had already climbed the Nadelhorn a couple of years ago whilst on the 4000m course, so we knew the hut approach and the descent off the Nadelhorn too. The hut walk is a mainly steep path out of Saas Fee that zig zags its way up the hillside directly above Saas Fee. The upper half of the walk turns into a simple via ferrata cable way with continuous scrambling right up to the hut. It takes around 3 hours and once at the hut you have amazing views looking down onto Saas Fee and the surrounding mountains. The Mischabel hut is amazing, with a stunning location and great vibe.

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Grateful for the rest day but still feeling the legs, we made good time on the hut approach and beat the light afternoon rain. That afternoon at the hut was spent resting and having a little sleep before dinner. Breakfast the next day was 03:30 am and the weather forecast looked good with only a small afternoon storm risk. Our plans would put us back at the hut around midday, so the early start ensured we had enough time.

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Breakfast was quick and soon we were outside in the dark looking up to the night sky filled with stars, out headtorches lighting the way up the scramble behind the hut. The ENE ridge soon started to take shape and by keeping to the high ground we followed the terrain and were soon on the ENE ridge proper. In the dark we were now pitched climbing, which was enjoyable with the clouds passing around us in the dark making it feel wild. The climbing was impressive, and the route took us through some steep unlikely terrain, which often looked way harder than it actually was. Still without daylight, we tried to figure out where we were in relation to the topo description. We had to make a couple of abseils so determined we had climbed the Gendarme described.

Daylight arrived, and we’d been making very good time. The climbing looked steep but was never difficult, so we kept on going. With one final big buttress to climb, we could see the summit snow ridge. Once up and over the last buttress, we had to negotiate a rock ridge leading to the final snow slopes.

We took a little break at the base of the final snow slopes and put our crampons on. The route had been in perfect condition, with dry rock throughout, and this was a good indicator that the traverse to the Nadelhorn would be the same. At this point we could look along and see most of the rock ridge traverse linking the Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn, We were feeling good, so set off for the summit. The snow arete turned into a steep snow slope, and soon we were climbing the last few meters to the summit.

Another big summit achieved for the week, and we couldn’t believe how lucky we had been. Joe’s strength and mindset in the mountains is inspiring, and it’s always fun climbing together.

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Traverse to the Nadelhorn

With more hard work left we high fived and set off on the traverse to the Nadelhorn. We were now exposed to a cold wind on the traverse ridge crest, and I can remember finding some shelter on the sunny side and taking a break there for some time. We had a second breakfast and some drink, allowing us to really enjoy the sun for a moment. With the traverse being dry we made good time and after climbing a further 3 or 4 rock towers, including some abseils, we stood on the summit of the Nadelhorn at 4327m.

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It was 09:00 am and the descent off the Nadelhorn looked straightforward on good snow, so we decided to take another break on the summit. Water, snacks, cheese, and meats were carried, and thoughts were already on the coffee/beer and rosti back at the hut. We knew the descent, and had heard reports of good conditions throughout. We still had to keep focused and pushed on. The descent went well, and most of the way we chatted about the week and reflected on the day’s route. Back at the hut we were both buzzing and tired at the same time, and allowed ourselves a good couple hours rest before having to set off on the descent back down to Saas Fee.

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After a good relax at the hut and walk down the simple but exposed via ferrata, we were back in Saas Fee later that afternoon. It had been a long day by the time we got back to our guesthouse, so there wasn’t much time for an afternoon nap; instead we had a beer to celebrate the week and were straight in for dinner. Over dinner we were already chatting over ideas and plans for next summer. The week we’d had was fantastic; full of mountain adventures, lots of hard work, big summits, and fun stories along the way too. It left us both looking forward to 2025 and inspired for more 4000m summits. Here’s to next time Joe, and thank you for such an amazing Alpine climbing week!

Explore our 2025 Summer Alpine Programme

About Stuart McAleese

“Originally from Northern Cumbria I started out hill walking in the Lake District when I was at school. I soon become interested in rock climbing and mountaineering, and was lucky enough to work and climb with Mountain Guides during my first job leaving school. Since then I’ve been working full time in the mountains for around 25 years.

At the same time as working, I enjoy climbing in my free time and have been lucky enough to go on many expeditions around the world, climbing new mountains, first ascents and tough remote summits. Places such as Patagonia, Alaska, Himalaya, Peru, Baffin Island, Yosemite and China. In 2004 I was nominated for the prestigious Piolet d’Or in Grenoble, France, for a 1st ascent of the ‘Supa Dupa Couloir’ in Alaska.

I love my job as a Mountain Guide, teaching and exploring big mountains in all weather all year round. I joined the Glenmore Lodge team in 2019 and head up the Summer Alpine programme as well as delivering on the Rock & Mountain programme of training courses”.