River Spey Descent
The Spey is the closest river to Glenmore Lodge and provides a fantastic resource for learning and improving moving water skills in canoe, kayak, or on SUP. The river also provides opportunity to undertake memorable expeditions, and a Spey Descent is certainly something that captures paddlers’ interest. The experience provides a fantastic mix of journeying in a beautiful environment, using and improving river running skills, and camping. Canoes are an ideal craft for expedition use. They are ideal for load carrying, and offer the option of paddling solo or tandem.
In this blog, Instructor Gill Berrow gives an overview of a Spey Descent and some of the considerations that go in to planning and undertaking such a journey.
The wildlife & people of the Spey
The Spey is a stunning river, flowing from high in the hills of the Highlands at Loch Spey and reaching the sea on the Moray Coast at Spey Bay. There are stretches of flat water, lochs, gently moving water, and faster, more complex sections too. The river is rarely far from roads and villages, yet the tree-lined banks and views to mountains, hills, and farmland give it a feel of remoteness. Viewing wildlife from afloat on the river, or on the wildflower covered banks during breaks and at camp, always feels special. Ducks, dippers, herons, ospreys, otters, beavers, and of course, salmon, all call the river their home.

The people on and around the river include paddlers in all kinds of craft, walkers, cyclists, and anglers. The Spey is a prime salmon dishing river, and a classic for paddlers. Historically, the river was used to float rafts of logs down river, and there were many sawmills along the route. This died out by early 1800, but from around that time the whisky industry grew, using the waters of the Spey and its tributaries. Distilleries still flourish along the river, and Speyside whisky is renowned worldwide.
Beginning the Spey Descent
There are several potential starting points for a Spey Descent. Glenmore Lodge tend to begin the journey at Loch Insh. This provides a lovely balance of paddling for a 5-day trip to Spey Bay. It allows a gentle start on the loch, so people can get acquainted with each other and their equipment. We then travel down the river to Aviemore before returning to Glenmore Lodge later on (only 15 minutes away). Here, we’ll collect camping equipment and prepare for the journey starting proper the following day with fully loaded canoes.

This means we get a full day on the water on day one with plenty of opportunity for coaching, as appropriate, and allows us to leave the sorting out of expedition kit until later in the day. We then enjoy an evening meal at the Lodge, before camping nearby in the forest. The next stay starts with a hearty Glenmore Lodge breakfast before we collect our camping food for the rest of the trip and return to where we left the river the day before.
The journey
The group, time of year, weather, and water levels will all influence how the next few days unfold. Distance covered, timing and location of lunch and snack breaks, and choice of camping spots at the end of each day will vary according to these factors. We’ll chat through these on every trip, and look to keep everyone involved in the decision-making. The time spent on the river gives opportunity to learn and practice skills, to read the water, work alongside other water users, and to enjoy the scenery and wildlife.

There are many options for campsites, ranging from basic farm campsites to wild camping on islands or riverbanks. We’ll consider energy levels, progress, fishing activity, need for shelter from the elements, and more when making our decisions. No two trips are quite the same. Each will be tailored to the needs and wishes of the group, and to the weather and water levels. In low water it becomes harder to cover lots of distance, while high water may present other challenges. An expedition down the Spey is usually possible whatever the water level.
Evenings at camp give opportunities for chatting and relaxing, while cooking communally, in smaller groups or individually. Being well fed and rested certainly adds to the enjoyment of the trip!

How experienced should you be for this trip
Participants come with various levels of experience, and perhaps with different aspirations. At Glenmore Lodge, the leader will make decisions based on these factors and include you in the decision-making, while ensuring everyone’s safety and enjoyment. Most folks will have 10-15 days of canoeing experience. Though this could be tandem or solo, and may not have involved river canoeing. Some participants may be skilled, practiced canoeists looking to expand their paddling experience to include multi-day trips. Or they may want to enjoy learning from and being led by a knowledgeable and experienced guide who is familiar with the river. Many participants will not be used to canoeing for 5 consecutive days, and having a reasonable level of paddling fitness is certainly a bonus.

The benefits of a guided Spey Descent
Competent paddlers may choose to do self-guided trips down the Spey, but completing the journey with Glenmore Lodge has many advantages. Whoever leads the journey will be someone passionate about canoeing, and with the experience and knowledge to add value to your trip. They will know the river, and will be experienced paddlers who have paddled far and wide.
The Stores at Glenmore Lodge are very well equipped and can provide craft, paddles, tents, stoves, protective clothing, and everything else that’s needed for the trip. Bringing clothes appropriate to the expected weather, and a few extra warm layers for both on the water and evenings at camp is all you would need to bring yourself.
Another advantage is that transport is provided to and from the river. This avoids complicated arrangements for returning to your start point with all your gear at the end of the trip. Food is also provided, both at the Lodge at the start of the week and throughout the journey. There is still plenty of scope for participants to use any of their own kit – for paddling and/or camping – and to bring their own camp food if they prefer. At campsites, communal cooking and eating is usually an option, and at some locations a campfire is possible where it is permitted.
Respecting the environment & other water users
All Glenmore Lodge courses are run with consideration for the environment and our impact on it, and other users. Farmers and fishing estates have businesses to run, and it is important that we respect that by not causing damage and by allowing others to enjoy their sport while we enjoy ours. Codes of conduct about responsibly using the countryside and shared responsibilities will guide us throughout. We’ll strive to minimise our impact in line with the principle of Leave No Trace, respect land and water users, and behave in ways that preserve the environment so that future groups can also enjoy the experience of journeying afloat on the river Spey.
Join us on our next Spey Descent
Interested in experiencing this memorable journey down the river Spey with the support of a Glenmore Lodge Instructor? Find out more details about this trip and book your space HERE.
Explore our full range of open canoeing courses HERE.
