Is It For Me?
The Mountaineering Instructor Award Training course provides training for instructors working in summer conditions. The syllabus includes multi-pitch rock climbing, scrambling, teaching & coaching climbing and other mountaineering skills.
You must register on the scheme via the MTUK. Full details can be found at http://www.mountain-training.org/mountaineering/awards/mountaineering-instructor-award
Registration for the MIA is an application process and all candidates must satisfy the following conditions:
- You must hold the Mountain Leader award
- You must have gained 20 quality mountain days as a leader since becoming a Mountain Leader, and logged them in DLOG
- You must have led 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs of minimum VS 4c standard in at least 3 main climbing areas of the UK, and logged them in DLOG
- You must have led 10 sport climbs at or above French grade 6a and logged them in DLOG
- There should also be a reference in the Referee tab of your DLOG.
If you can tick all of the above boxes, here’s what to do next:
- Log in to the Candidate Management System
- Register for the Mountaineering Instructor Award scheme (this costs £77)
- Notify Mountain Training (via the SEND TO MT button in DLOG) that your DLOG is ready to be reviewed
Training course bookings must not be made until your Mountaineering Instructor Award registration application has been approved by Mountain Training.
This course provides you with an opportunity for discussing and sharing ideas through a structured and progressive programme. Please come with an open mind and prepared to contribute lots of ideas and experience. You should bring a notebook and a camera to assist you in recording information and ideas. We also issue a substantial pack of notes as well.
Please familiarise yourself with the Mountaineering Instructor Scheme Prospectus, Syllabus and Guidance Notes published by the MTUK. The detail of the programme will be governed to some extent by the weather and conditions.
Although the course is broken up into days, an integrated approach to the syllabus material will be taken. Techniques and skills often taught in isolation are transferable through all aspects of the instructor’s role. To enable you to gain the maximum benefit from your course, you should have a holistic approach to the subject matter and not assume that technique ‘A’ can only be used in situation ‘A’.
For three of the days (Multi pitch climbing I and II, and the mountain day) we will be based over on the West Coast at fully catered accommodation. You do not need any sleeping bags etc as this is full board accommodation in a comfortable bunkhouse.
We will also be making reference to Rock Climbing: Essential Skills & Techniques by Libby Peter and published by MTUK so please ensure you bring a copy along with you.
MIA Training Course Programme
The topic of environmental concerns and issues will be covered on a daily basis making best use of available talking points. The course director will often re-arrange the above programme to take advantage of weather conditions.
||MORNING / AFTERNOON
||Ratios Staff: Candidates
ASSESSMENT OF RISK AND IT’S APPLICATION
This day looks at adventure and risk. How we can develop judgement, safety and awareness across challenging areas of activities. We will use the mountain environment to explore the assessment of risk and it’s application.
|TALK: The Instructor & the Law.
|SINGLE PITCH WORKSHOP
Revisiting basic climbing skills such as movement on rock, rope work, belay plate orientation and use, abseiling. This day includes a practical look at using a single pitch venue.
|PROBLEM SOLVING & RESCUE SKILLS I – Nuts and bolts
|SERIES ROPE MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING (West Coast)
Based near Glen Coe for three days and staying in comfortable, fully catered, bunkhouse style accommodation. This day will revisit trainees personal climbing ability and techniques on multi-pitch ground up to VS 4c. the emphasis of this day will be on series rope technique and stance management.
|SESSION: Use of a guide plate and stance management when climbing in parallel.
|PARALLEL ROPE MULTI PITCH CLIMBING
Further consolidation of multi pitch climbing with an emphasis on using parallel rope technique.
|SESSION: Short roping uses & limitations, taking coils.
This day focuses on the care and leadership of a party on scrambling and rocky terrain in both ascent and descent. A major part of the day will be spent on teaching use of short rope technique. Particular emphasis will be placed on developing decision making and judgement calls in this challenging aspect of professional mountaineering.
|Return to Lodge
|Coaching Climbing & Coaching Process.
This day looks at generic coaching fundamentals in climbing and explores how we can improve our students performance. This day will be based either at Cummingston all day or a morning in the indoor wall and the afternoon at a sport climbing venue.
|Coaching Climbing Con’t
|PROBLEM SOLVING & RESCUE SKILLS
Developing simple solutions to complex problems. Practical application of improvised rescue techniques in a variety of simulated scenarios on the crag.
|SESSION: Self Programmed Problem Solving Practice: Climbing Wall
A practical exploration of the issues involved in introducing novice climbers to the ‘sharp end’ of the rope. Includes techniques for looking after both yourself and your students.
|SESSION: Self Programmed Teaching Climbing Client Scenarios.
|Learning & Teaching Navigation @ SML
This day is spent teaching the fundamentals of navigation. Part of the morning is spent around the centre grounds, the rest is on the hill teaching navigation to SML standard.
Session: Between Training & Assessment
What Will I Need?
Glenmore Lodge has a large, and very comprehensive store of up to date clothing and equipment. You are welcome to use your own equipment and pick and choose odd items from the store. Glenmore Lodge will supply all ropes. Your instructor will want to check that personal equipment is appropriate for the activity.
GLENMORE LODGE CAN SUPPLY:
- Waterproof jackets and trousers
- Leather Boots
- Day & Expedition Sacs
- All emergency group kit including ropes.
EQUIPMENT YOU NEED TO BRING WHICH WE DO NOT HAVE IN THE STORES.
Listed here are the essentials, this is not an exhaustive list.
- Informal clothing for leisure wear
- Warm outdoor wear
- Insulating layers – at least one mid weight and one warm fleece layer
- General trekking trousers are recommended, not jeans though.
- Thick socks (several pairs)
- Spare fleece/insulated jacket
- Hat & gloves*** leather palmed Belay Gloves are useful for rope work scenarios.
- Compass – Silva type 4 recommended with a 1:40,000 romer ***
- Maps and waterproof map case. You’ll need a waterproof 1:50,000 sheet 36 map of the Cairngorms, and a map of the Glencoe area (1:25 000 or equivalent).
- Rucksack liner (or sturdy bin liner) / dry bags
- Vacuum Flask & Water Bottle ***
- Box or bag for packed lunch.
- Blister kit/ small first aid kit
- Personal toiletries & medications (towels are provided)
- Suncream – you just never know! ***
- Spare towel
- An alarm clock
Glenmore Lodge also has a pool, gym & climbing wall – so don’t forget your swimming/gym/climbing kit!
Items marked *** are available in our shop subject to availability.