Summer Alpine Tailormade Adventure: Pollux, South Ridge of the Lagginhorn, & the Matterhorn
After this year’s Glenmore Lodge Summer Alpine programme concluded, we then delivered 2 further weeks of Tailormade 1:1 private guiding that are both worth celebrating. The 1:1 nature of these weeks means that everything was suited completely to the specific Alpine ambitions. Often folks request a certain mountain, a number of mountains, or to extend their experience gained on a previous Glenmore Lodge Alpine course. These weeks are full of climbing and mountaineering, touring around for specific summits or heading to different mountain regions.
Background
Moving into the final week of our tailormade Alpine climbing, the good weather was holding and conditions were still looking great. This week I was climbing with Alex; our plan was the Matterhorn, though it was an open plan and were looking to do other routes and summits through the week as training.

I have been lucky enough to have climbed with Alex for the previous 4 years, and it has been amazing to see her climbing experience build and develop in both summer and winter. Alex has followed a great pathway of learning the climbing and mountaineering skills and personal climbing training. Learning these together means they complement each other, and it has been a pleasure to see Alex performing so well in the mountains both in a guided team and now independently too. She has been Alpine climbing the previous 2 years and was on the Saas Fee Alpine Mountains 4000m course last summer, and attended the Swiss Technical Summits course this summer.
All Alex’s time spent climbing and in the mountains is so valuable and essential when working as a team in the Alps on mountains such as the Matterhorn. Any time spent climbing and mountaineering is worth it and keeps your motivation levels up. Alex is a strong rock climber and boulderer and understands what is needed to transfer these skills to the bigger mountains of the Alps.
Winter climbing in Scotland has also played a key part in Alex’s journey. This is great for developing crampon and ice axe technique, and your overall understanding of climbing and mountaineering. These skills and techniques are the building blocks required for climbing Alpine mountains like the Matterhorn.
Planning for the week
When we chatted prior to the Alpine 1:1, Alex had a few ideas of what to climb including the Matterhorn. So the plan was to build in some training and acclimatisation on other mountains in the first few days, and see if the weather and conditions were good for the Matterhorn towards the end of the week. We met up the evening before the week began and reviewed our options. The good weather was holding and after a quick look at the forecast it was expected to stay that way. With that in mind and knowing Alpine huts can get booked up early, we went ahead and booked the Hornli hut for the Matterhorn ascent at the end of the week.
The Hornli hut is right at the base of the route taken on the Matterhorn, and it’s normal for ascents to start from there. So we felt quite lucky getting a booking and at the end of the week too. This then allowed us to plan the training peaks and routes we would like to do in the first half of the week.
We had an open plan, which is easier for a small team of 2 like us. However if part of a larger team, we would normally have booked the huts and be following an itinerary. Even then, flexibility is important, as the weather and conditions can change.
It’s always nice to climb something new or visit new areas, however sometimes you may repeat a route you’ve done previously for acclimitisation purposes. To limit travel time and effort we chose to stay in the same area but climb new routes for Alex. We first planned for an ascent of Pollux in Zermatt, followed by the South Ridge of the Lagginhorn. These two mountain routes would set us up well for the Matterhorn, being graded similar difficulty and providing good opportunities for acclimatisation.
With the plan in place and weather looking good we were both excited for the week ahead.

Pollux
The next day began with coffee at 4.00am and an early transfer round to Zermatt, where we would get the Zermatt uplift system o the Klein Matterhorn at 3817m. The week prior, Alex had been trekking in and around up to 3000m and stayed a night at the Almageller hut too. She had also been on our Swiss Technical Summits course 2 weeks earlier, so was acclimatised enough to attempt a 4000m mountain on day 1 of the week.

At the top of the lift and straight out onto the glacier, we roped up and set off slowly towards the base of Pollux. The snow on the glacier was frozen which made it easier to walk on, and soon we were past the Breithorn and well on the way to Pollux. It’s a long traverse to the base of Pollux; it’s an impressive glacier with superb views down to Italy. After around 40 minutes we paused near the base of Pollux and geared up for the climb. The climb itself isn’t difficult, which is just what was needed for our acclimatising.

We were both happy with the pace and enjoying the scrambling, and pleased with how well we were moving. Both of us were feeling strong and soon we were are the fixed chains, which passed by quickly and confidently. Sometimes pitch climbing but most of the climb/scramble we were moving together using short rope techniques. After the fixed chains we paused to put on crampons and to get an ice axe out. It felt great being on the snow crest ridge top, with good weather and the summit in quick time and all to ourselves.

The descent was the same as the ascent, so with all the route fresh in our minds we were able to move easily and retrace our steps. During our descent we had to make way or pass by some climbers on their way up, just some of the challenges and risks that need to be managed on the busier Alpine mountains.
Back on the glacier, we were pleased with our climb and energy levels, and soon we were talking about food and drinks in Zermatt. So after a short break we started on the glacier traverse back to the lift station at Klein Matterhorn.
All went well and next we were walking through Zermatt for lunch before the drive back to our hotel base in Saas Grund. Over pizza we reviewed the day and how plans were looking for the next training climb/summit – the Lagginhorn South Ridge.
Lagginhorn South Ridge
The next morning was spent packing and getting ready for the Lagginhorn, and in the afternoon we took the uplift to the Hohsaas hut. As the hut is at the top lift station, we arrived fresh and without any walking to get there. That afternoon we went out and did a recce of the route we would be doing in the dark, early the next morning. It involved a short scramble ridge section, which leads up to the glacier beneath the Lagginhorn and the start of the South Ridge proper. The access onto and condition of the glacier is what we were most interested in, as this would help avoid any route finding problems in the dark and save us time in the morning.
Whilst out we met another team doing the same thing too, and worked out they were off to the Matterhorn the same time we were planning to as well. The glacier looked good and we felt it had been worth a look at in daylight. The South Ridge of the Lagginhorn is a long route and any time saving efforts make a big difference. That evening we had a great dinner at the hut and it was fun seeing other teams all excited about the good weather and their plans for the next day.
Breakfast the next day was at 3.30am, an early start for a long route that gave us time for the descent as well. The dark night skies were filled with stars, and looking across to the other mountains we could clearly see the lights of other mountain huts and the headtorches of climbers setting off.

Near the start of the scramble ridge we paused to rope up and carried on following easy sections of scrambling and tracks, leading to the edge of the glacier. We put on crampons and headed for the start of the ridge at the col. Once at the rock, we took off our crampons to climb and continue to the ridge line at the col. There were some helpful fixed rope and staples for feet in place just below the col, mainly to help cross some blank sections/steep slabs, and we reached the col for sunrise.

We had to pause for photos of the amazing view, and to have some food and drink. The South Ridge was looking impressive and our energy levels were good, so soon we set off again and the climbing started. We were mainly moving together, with the occasional section of pitched climbing. Once we were at the top the first tower we could clearly see the rest of the ridge, and teams on the glacier below us. We felt lucky to have such amazing weather and the ridge to ourselves. Route finding was going well, following the natural line and with wear and tear from crampons confirming lots of our decisions.

Alex was climbing well and we were moving fast and both feeling comfortable with the climbing. It’s a great feeling moving well over good rock and covering lots of ground, looking at the watch and seeing we were well ahead of schedule. This long alpine climb involved good rock climbing and scrambling, sometimes traversing, downclimbing, and little abseils/lowers. The climb was great fun, and we were at the summit 4.5 hours after leaving the hut. On the summit we reflected on our efforts while looking back along the ridge. Feeling strong, our attention soon shifted to the descent which looked in less good conditions with quite a bit of loose rock in the top section. Even though the route is easier, we still had to be cautious descending the upper slopes, as they’re normally covered in snow but late in the summer it can thaw out to bare rock steps. Once past this upper section the angle eased and there was less loose rock, and the route was now an easy scramble with the odd little track to follow too.

The descent route is 1300m from summit to hut, so we had quite a bit of ground to cover. Even though we may have felt tired, it is important to keep focus to avoid any mistakes, so we kept going slow and steady. The weather was still settled and warming up as we got closer to the hut. Lower down the route becomes more of a path and soon we were approaching the hut, already discussing what food and drinks to order. After a nice, relaxed lunch at the hut, we started our short walk down to the lift station where we caught the cable car back to Saas Grund.

Back at our hotel base in Saas Grund we had a good rest then talked over Matterhorn plans at dinner. Everything had gone well on Pollux and the South Ridge of the Lagginhorn, so we were in a good place for our attempt. We were feeling strong and the weather was good too; so with all the stars lining up the next days we made our way round to Zermatt.
The Matterhorn
Arriving in Zermatt the next day, we could clearly see the Matterhorn above the village. We took the cable car out of the village to a mid-station at Schwatzsee, from which it is about a 2 hour walk to the Hornli Hut. We had plenty of time and walked slowly to preserve as much energy as possible and use the opportunity for a small active rest. These weeks are always demanding physically and mentally, as the climbs are more demanding and often done on little sleep with early starts from huts and successive big days. The week had to be balanced and carefully paced to be in good shape for the Matterhorn. This is all part of the challenge, and makes it a rewarding experience at the end.
When you arrive at the Hornli hut, you are standing right below the mountain and can see the whole way to the impressive summit. The place was buzzing; the weather was good and lots of climbers were arriving at the hut, having just summited. They all looked tired and happy, celebrating and talking about their climb.

We got checked in, found our beds for the night and unpacked. After food and drink on the balcony we took a short walk to the start of the climb and went through what was going to happen in the morning, so we were as prepared as much as possible for the early start and climbing in the dark.
That evening at dinner most people there were heading up the mountain in the morning too, and the excitement made for a great vibe. With dinner done it was time for final checks for the morning, all equipment ready and then soon it was time for bed. The next day would take a lot of effort, so everyone tried to get as much sleep as possible.
Breakfast was at 4.00am, and soon everyone was gearing up putting harnesses on and headtorches on to helmets and finally roping up. Around 20mins later it was time to leave, and after a short walk we were at the start of the climbing. Everyone had headtorches on and the first section of climbing naturally creates a small bottle neck. However this year a new set of steps and fixed rope were put in place, which are easier to use and mean less waiting time for everyone.
It’s a steep start and good fitness and a gentle pace are initially key, to prevent getting out of breath straight away. With a long climb it’s better to keep moving steadily rather than needing to stop frequently. We were aiming for 4.5-5 hours up and the same time for descent, so it was good to be aware of our position on the mountain as descent is no faster due to the need for downclimbing and some abseiling. This also meant we needed to keep some energy in reserve for the return journey.
The weather was amazing, with little wind and a clear sky full of stars. The route on the lower part of the mountain can be tricky, and it’s important not to stray off route as there can be loose rock on the less travelled ground.

During the first lower section of the mountain the climbing and scrambling is quite sustained throughout, with the odd fixed rope to pull on. You are more on the east face, climbing and scrambling rock walls and sometimes little grooves and gullies. The route slowly ascends diagonally towards the ridge line in parts then back onto the east side of the ridge. The route aimed for the Solvay hut, a key place and an opportunity to review timing and how well the team is doing.
By sunrise we were ready to climb the final sections to up to the hut, feeling tired but okay given the amount we had done already. Things were looking good for the summit. The Solvay hut is a small shelter built on the ridge to provide emergency shelter for climbers, with a couple of bunk beds and blankets. It sits at 4003m on the ridge; that morning it was catching the wind and felt very cold, so we put on another layer and had a quick bite to eat before carrying on.

Alex is a strong climber, which meant we could move comfortably and safely on all the climbing sections and fixed ropes at a good pace. Working as a team, we’d often check in with each other and see if all was going okay. We were doing well for time, and all the hard work (physically and mentally) was very worth it.
There were more rock climbing sections above the Solvay hut, which went easily before we were back onto more scrambling. There are more fixed ropes now and especially through the headwall section just below the summit snowfields, which helped us keep moving fast and safely. Higher on the mountain and just below the headwall we put our crampons on. The wind had increased and the ridge was now very narrow and exposed on both sides, with the headwall above us looking steep. The headwall is mainly climbed using the fixed ropes on this section, and even near the top there is a small chain ladder. We moved well through all of these sections, and we could both feel the altitude with the effort of steep climbing. You’re pulling/gripping a lot of the ropes with your hands and climbing with your feet. Its important to balance and climb with your feet as well as pulling on the fixed ropes to prevent getting tired too quickly. This is all at around 4500m so it does feel tough going, which is why a steady pace and good strength and fitness are key.

We pulled up and over the last section of fixed ropes which lead to the start of the summit snow slopes. At this point we had some of the first climbing teams starting to pass us on their descent, As folk were passing by, we congratulated them on their success and received words of support and encouragement too. It’s really nice meeting other climbers high on the mountain and there is always a good spirit amongst the climbing community wherever you are in the world.
We got our ice axes out and slowly made our way up the final snow slopes. These were in great condition and there was even a mini track with steps from other climbers. At this stage, the legs were feeling all the hard work, but we were soon on the summit at 4478m.

We were both really happy and had clear views to all the big mountains around us and in the distance. I was so impressed with Alex and satisfied that all the hard work and preparation leading up to this had paid off. It had warmed up a bit and we were feeling a bit more comfortable, and we paused for a moment and had some food and drink. Alex had saved a mini Toblerone chocolate to celebrate with, which provided a good laugh and felt appropriate sitting on the summit of the Matterhorn.

The time was just after 8.00am so the route from the hut had taken us around 4 hours which was very impressive and put us in a good place with plenty of time for descent. Our energy levels were as expected, but there was plenty left in reserve for the return journey which we expected to take another 4 hours. We made slow but decent time, descending the fixed ropes and downclimbing back to the Solvay hut at 4003m.

The weather and conditions had been perfect for a Matterhorn ascent, with dry rock and good snow on the summit snow slopes. We stopped for another short break at the Solvay hut and carried on, aware of our fatigue levels and moving cautiously on the down climbing sections. Below the hut we were once again on the lower section which we had mostly climbed in the dark earlier in the morning, making every effort to keep off any loose rock sections lower down. We made good progress, but even though we could see the hut it never seemed to get any closer! It’s a long way, and as the day got hotter warm layers were taken off and put back into our rucksacks.

Soon we had reached the fixed ropes just above the hut at the start of the climb. We could now start to celebrate properly, with peace of mind that we had completed the long descent safely. The final fixed ropes were fun, and then we were back on flat ground at the base of the mountain. We congratulated each other on a climb well done, untied the rope and slowly wandered off to the hut where we relaxed and enjoyed some food and a well earned rest. All that remained was a slow walk down to Zermatt and travel back round to our hotel base in Saas Grund.
We were both happy and all the hard work and effort felt totally worth it. It was a real pleasure climbing the Matterhorn with Alex and here’s to more Alpine climbing adventures and summits in summer 2025!
With plenty of rock climbing, Scottish winter climbing, and good alpine fitness, all the mountains we climbed over the course of this week are very achievable. And the Matterhorn is such an inspiring ambition for anyone,
This marked the end of the Alpine season for myself, and I would like to thank everyone involved. We’re looking forward to our next Summer Alpine programme and the winter climbing and mountaineering season here at Glenmore Lodge in Scotland!
Explore our 2025 Summer Alpine Programme

About Stuart McAleese
“Originally from Northern Cumbria I started out hill walking in the Lake District when I was at school. I soon become interested in rock climbing and mountaineering, and was lucky enough to work and climb with Mountain Guides during my first job leaving school. Since then I’ve been working full time in the mountains for around 25 years.
At the same time as working, I enjoy climbing in my free time and have been lucky enough to go on many expeditions around the world, climbing new mountains, first ascents and tough remote summits. Places such as Patagonia, Alaska, Himalaya, Peru, Baffin Island, Yosemite and China. In 2004 I was nominated for the prestigious Piolet d’Or in Grenoble, France, for a 1st ascent of the ‘Supa Dupa Couloir’ in Alaska.
I love my job as a Mountain Guide, teaching and exploring big mountains in all weather all year round. I joined the Glenmore Lodge team in 2019 and head up the Summer Alpine programme as well as delivering on the Rock & Mountain programme of training courses”.