This weekend we had Martin from Marmot UK staying at the lodge. Marmot are one of our key sponsors and it’s always nice to see them up here.

On Saturday Pauline, Scott and Martin headed into Coire and T’sneachda and climbed The Genie; an under-rated VS,4C on Aladdin’s Buttress. Martin had brought a new Marmot jacket with him for us to have a look at. The Stretch-man, it’s a lightweight, super stretchy, waterproof and breathable shell. I did a pitch wearing the jacket and was very impressed. Keep your eyes open for this jacket, due to be released in spring 2010.

After The genie we headed up the ultra classic Fingers Ridge and moved together in an alpine style.
We all had a great weekend and I am pleased to say that we are set to continue this partnership well into the future.

Doug and Ian have just got back from a remote corner of Ladakh in Northern India. With them were a team of paddlers, many who are regularly seen working at the Lodge. Two years in the planning the first objective was trying to acclimatise as fast as possible to the 4500m altitude at which the river started. One thing you can’t plan for is water levels, and this year was huge – the biggest water they had seen out there in 16 years. So a little out of breath a team of 7 boaters started on the Tsarup Chu river in big water – we were pretty much paddling from the top of Mount Blanc! The Tsarup Chu involved 4 days of self support kayaking in one of the remotest and inhospitable places on earth. With heavy boats and high water levels it was straight into some fairly solid class 4 boating, the river forcing it’s way through 6 sheer sided box canyons. These canyons were often no more than 5 metres wide, were completely blind, inescapable and involved paddling through boils that need to be seen to be believed.
After two days of box canyons, half a day on some easier water though spectacular open gorges the river picked up volume and gradient as it cascaded towards the confluence with the Zanskar River. A couple of big portages were required in between some big and steep class 4 and 5 rapids. The final day gave unbelievable white water, big heavy volume class four, all read and run with non stop adrenalin.
Joining the Zanskar the Tsarup Chu team met up with another 6 friends and the raft support team to continue for 5 days down the Zanskar River. The Zanskar is often referred to as the ‘Grand Canyon’ of the Himalaya, and in this it did not disappoint. The scenery was unbelievable and around every corner something new would take your breath away. The only thing that stopped you taking in the views was the white water. Although not as hard as the Tsarup Chu, it was still big and very continuous at the high flows. So waves and boils were regularly engulfing the team of paddlers as they journeyed down one of the greatest canyons on earth.
Ten days after starting the river journey everybody arrived safely back in Leh, time to reflect of what was for the majority one of the most amazing river expeditions they had ever done.

No doubt Doug and Ian will still be telling the stories well into the autumn. If you are up here on a course then you can hear the full account from them!

Steve McClure, one of the UK’s highest profile and most influential rock climbers, has become the newest addition to Marmot’s pro climbing and mountaineering team.

Steve reputation has been well earned over the last decade through his constant pushing of standards and ground breaking ascents.

Steve was the first Britain to onsight F8b and then F8b+; climbed the first F9a in England in 2000 (Northern Lights), F9a+ in 2007 (Overshadow) and has been British Indoor Champion four times. Steve has also onsighted more than 100 routes graded F8a or harder within 12 months; climbed over 500 sport routes at F8a and above, established a ground-up F8b+ deep water solo, climbed 8c+ very fast and climbed E11 trad in 2008 (Rhapsody).

Climbers of Steve’s ability are very rare, and we are delighted that he has chosen to work with us. His plans of continued landmark ascents and endorsement of our products will give us exceptional brand exposure. We believe our range of clothing and equipment will play a pivotal role for Steve as he undertakes all his climbing in the future.

About working with Marmot Steve said:

“I'm extremely pleased. I'm lucky to be supported by the best equipment companies in the world (Petzl, Beal and 5.10) and Marmot fits perfectly alongside these. I used Marmot equipment exclusively in Greenland a few years ago where performance was paramount and was impressed. I couldn't think of a better company to forge a relationship with. Within a day of getting some new clothes I was wearing them at a high elevation crag in Wales. A long sweaty walk in, followed by hard climbing in cold windy weather needed high performance stuff. I'm used to typical cotton clothing, but the difference in performance under testing conditions, and thus my overall climbing performance was massive!”

In addition to his role as Marmot’s newest athlete, Steve will also be working closely with us on our new retailer support strategy. He, and our other athletes, will visit our key retail partners to meet shop staff, communicate real world product use, and deliver inspirational presentations.